USE 01

HMS Norfolk continued Page 2

FINAL HULL SKINNING

Peter had suggested that we should NOT have smooth hull skins like many of the models that you see around the exhibitions, show and clubs, as he said that this was NOT NATURAL AT ALL.

First Plates on the bow and aft

WELL, HERE WE GO AGAIN!” we said. We started putting the first plates on the bow and aft section of the model and we started from the deck top towards the middle of the hull. We found that we could not use fine pins very well and came up with a good idea of using drawing pins of a medium size; even so we had to prick the ply, as this would help them through. Some time ago I came up with an idea of putting warm water into a container and standing the Epoxy glue in it. This had the effect of making it thinner and would speed up the gluing process, but there were some side effects. Like if you were not quick enough to get the plate on you became stuck to it or you would only get it half on. “WHOOPS! “ We became better at it in the end even though we could only manage a few plates at a time. I bought the small containers from Martins Plastics, Norwich. Please try to wear thin gloves as it protects your hands; also a double filter respirator if you do not like the smell.

Build 5
Build 7

The forward view of the hull here on the left is in the process of filling and sanding operations, and yes it takes up nearly 3/4 of my garage.

Why use Garnet paper!

“Why use Garnet paper?” we hear you say.
Well this paper is a professional type, unlike glass paper in which glass is used as an abrasive. This has been known to scratch the wood, whereas Garnet is made of rock, which is much gentler and can LAST LONGER after a good banging to remove the collected dust. However, you could also use wet and dry paper as you can get very fine sheets. The Garnet paper can be bought at various premier outlets.

Battery Compartment

The forwarded battery compartment was made large as at the time we thought that we were going to use car batteries, but as time passed we changed our minds and decided to install the radio gear and the 12 volt 12 amp battery. The main battery compartment would be the other side of the middle join and this was to house the main propulsion batteries. In these larger compartments it was relatively easy to cut out the waste ply, thank goodness for that.

Lucky Escape!

As I started to cut out the motor housing compartment ply with the Dremel I had a VERY LUCKY ESCAPE 
as the router bit parted company with the chuck and flew straight past my ear at about 200mph and embedded itself into the brick wall. The drill had been going at full speed (37,000 rpm) so it was a good job I had my eye goggles on! I'm afraid I had to a STIFF drink here to calm my nerves.

Build 9

The forward section of the model, showing the bow compartments

Build 10

As you see from the photo on the right, battery compartment is large enough for 2 x 12 volt 26 amp gel batteries plus the forwarded main fuses and switches

Build 11

The photo on the Left shows the rear bulkheads and the rudder block posts. All went well after this. I finished off the prop-shafts and rudder compartment and sanded all the edges down as the ply we used in the bulkheads was quite cheap but strong.

Shafts and Skegs

Build 28

I had arranged to buy my propeller shafts and P-brackets from The Prop Shop and was made especially for me by Simon. Peter and I took the aft end of the model to him so he could measure and make a rough model of the P-brackets, as he was to make them out of brass and they had to have the correct angle to fit the prop shafts.